Porta Felice leads into piazza Santo Stefano, built in 1823 after an earthquake destroyed the church previously occupying the site. In the northeastern corner of the piazza, a flight of stairs leads up to the “mura delle cattive, a public walkway above the Foro Italico. While Palermo’s high society took there constitutional below, the city’s bereaved widows used this more private walkway. Protected from the wind and with a lovely view, it is one of Palermo’s most romantic nooks. Every time I pass through, I find a young couple kissing. Like the widows, they must appreciate the walkway’s privacy.
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